| 摘要: |
| 本研究根据崇武水文站1976—2007年共31 a的波浪观测资料，使用皮尔逊Ⅲ型频率曲线进行拟合分析，推算出崇武在不同重现期条件下的特征波浪要素，再将其作为外海波浪要素输入，通过基于椭圆型缓坡方程的CGWAVE近岸波浪数值模型，模拟西沙湾的重现期波浪场，得到其设计波浪要素，得到较为合理的计算结果。西沙湾的海底地形强烈地影响近岸波浪，导致了波高和波向的不均匀分布特征，岛屿和礁石都是天然屏障，东侧水域受龟屿及闽台码头的掩护，波浪反射、绕射明显，对避风坞起到了有效的保护作用。此外，对于不同地质的边界，反射系数不同使得近岸波高分布有较大差异。 |
| 关键词: 物理海洋学 设计波浪 皮尔逊Ⅲ型频率曲线 数值模拟 西沙湾 |
| DOI：10.3969/J.ISSN.2095-4972.2020.01.011 |
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| 基金项目:国家重点研发计划资助项目（2017YFC1404801） |
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| Engineering wave calculation and wave field numerical simulation in Xisha Bay |
| LIN Yi-hui,ZHENG Yi-fei,PAN Wei-ran,XIAO Zheng,JI Hou-de |
| (1. College of Ocean and Earth Sciences, Xiamen University, Xiamen 361102，China; 2. Fujian Institute of Oceanography，Xiamen 361013，China) |
| Abstract: |
| Based on the 31 years wave observation data at Chongwu hydrological station from 1976 to 2007, Pearson Ⅲ type of frequency curve fitting analysis is used to calculate the characteristic wave parameters in conditions of different return period in Chongwu. Besides, the CGWAVE model, an inshore wave numerical model based on the elliptic mildslope equation, is used to simulate the Xisha Bay return period wave field for the design wave parameters. The simulation result shows that the seafloor topography of Xisha Bay strongly influences coastal wave, causing the uneven distribution of wave height and wave direction. Islands and reefs are natural barriers. The eastern waters is protected by Guiyu island and Mintai pier. Wave reflection and diffraction obviously play an effective protection on the sheltered dock. Moreover, different reflection coefficients of different geological boundaries will significantly lead to the variations of nearshore wave height distribution. |
| Key words: physical oceanography design wave Pearson Ⅲ type of frequency curve numerical simulation Xisha Bay |
